Cerna Hora Brewery
Saturday had been quite demanding. Blansko at home in the afternoon followed by Zbrojovka Brno v Sparta Praha, so unsurprisingly, I slept through my alarm and was woken up by the sound of my phone at 9.30. Having missed a couple of trips, Craggy was eager to get back on the horse and ride off to the South Moravian village of Rajecko (via the Cerna Hora brewery). Well, when I say ride, I don’t actually mean that as we don’t have a horse.
The Cerna Hora brewery dates back to 1298 and is one of the most popular local beers in South Moravia, which makes it strange that this is our first trip here. To ease the delicate head, we decided to take the 30 minute walk from central Brno to the suburb of Kralove Pole, where a bus would be waiting to deliver us to out first destination of the trip. Things don’t always go to plan, but sure enough, upon arrival at the bus station, there was the 107 ready to drop us off at the brewery. The journey along the long winding road, up and out over Brno took just over 25 minutes , but more importantly….directly to the brewery, an absolutely blooming marvellous service.
Stepping off the bus, we found ourselves immediately admiring the building from the bus stop (we do have a thing for Czech breweries as you may have guessed) before slowly making our way across to check it out in closer detail and to get our hands on the local pint. Now, in the previous paragraph, I had mentioned how well trip had started. Well, here’s where, in true TBK style, we hit our first glitch. The brewery was closed for a private function and we were pointed in the direction of a window. Not any old window, but one selling beer, local beer. “Two bottles of your finest 10degree lager, please?” The old man serving us immediately cottoned on that my accent was not local and in true 1990s style saw a chance to make a quick buck. “200k??!!” …Now… had this been a brewery in Scandinavia, I would have gladly handed over the equivalent and taken the two bottles. But this was not Copenhagen, this was Cerna Hora in South Moravia. “200kc?, are you sure” I asked, somewhat surprised. “Ohh, sorry, I meant 34kc” he responded, finally realising that my Czech was perhaps slightly better than my accent had first suggested. Without wishing to make a thing about this, as I love living in this area – this is the second time this season that somebody has tried to make a financial gain at hearing us speaking a foreign tongue. A month or so earlier, we were walking from the train station in Skalica, Slovakia and a local woman had asked us for two euros. The reason, quite simply she had heard us speaking English and that we “must” have it. Later we discovered that 2 euros was the exact amount needed to get into the local beer festival, if she had mentioned that I would have gladly paid her entrance.. Anyway, I digress.. it is merely an observation. So, beers in hand and with no pub in the village open, we went to find a map and to work out exactly where we were heading next. Most people would take a scenic route and we had plenty of time to find a footpath, but as regular readers will know, we never do it the easy way. We took the main road, dodging oncoming Skodas and bemused cyclists as we made our way to the first village, Rajec Jestrebi, relieved to be alive and in search of a pub.
A person’s pub is their castle, or something like that
Rajec Jestrebi is well known to me (but unfortunately, I can’t share the details publicly) and is also famous as it hit the news worldwide last year, when a local man, who had perhaps had one two many, was hit by an express train and survived. He did lose a shoe and possibly hopped home, but he was otherwise unharmed. Some of you might call that a miracle. (link to man and train -http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/czechrepublic/10780649/Pensioner-hit-by-train-at-level-crossing-but-only-loses-shoe.html )
After successfully navigating our way out of the pub and crossing the the train track without being hit by the 14.05 express to Prague, we were back on the road to Rajecko. Making good time, it wasn’t long before a TBK sticker had been planted on the sign welcoming us to the village.
“Now, where’s the ground?” Craggy asked.
I was about to ask google maps for an answer, but we saw a definite sign that we weren’t far away. A couple head to toe in Dosta Bystrc’s green and white were asking a villager the same question and naturally we followed them, hoping that they weren’t heading to Aunt Maureen’s for a cup of tea before the game started.
At the turnstile, we paid the 30 crowns entrance, bought a beer and a sausage and made our way around to ground to the small stand and now home to about 30 Dosta Ultras for the day, a couple of former players and a huge drum. Shortly after taking our seats, the first cry of “Dostaaaaa Bystrc” greeted the players as they made their way to the centre of the pitch for the obligatory pre match wave to the fans.
Armed to the teeth with Kofola
The game itself was how we expected, Bystrc dominating the game and very quickly taking the lead with a goal from the prolific Petr Musil and then missing a hatful of first half chances… much to the frustration of Petr Sip, their ex defender sat in front of us.
“Those first half misses might come back to haunt them” Sip said at half-time and he was right. The second half was a completely different story with Olympic Rajecko camped in the Bystrc half and after some dubious refereeing decisions, they managed to grab an equaliser with little over 10 minutes left on the clock.
Now, most of the crowd were expecting a grandstand finish, but the players had different ideas and decided that 1-1 was a fair result and on 89 minutes the referee decided enough was enough and blew the final whistle. Welcome to the Krajsky Prebor.
With the train back to Brno not due for a further half an hour, we used the time to grab a couple more beers in the old mill, close to the train station and for me to find a WIFI connection to watch the rest of the Swansea game. A good day out.